Saturday, 31 January 2015

Heart Bunting Crochet Pattern


Due to many requests I have finally written down the crochet pattern to my heart bunting, which I designed a while ago now, but still hangs beautifully in my kitchen.

Perfect for the summer to decorate your gazebos or beach huts, maybe for a newborn baby room or for a birthday special occasion. A simple project but with great results.

You can watch the video tutorial here:


Recommended Materials
  • DK/Light worsted weight cotton yarn
  • 2.5mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle and scissors
Pattern is in US terminology

HC = heart colour
W = white 

Pattern

Round 1
Using HC, and working into a magic circle, crochet 4tr, 3dc, 1tr, 3dc, 4tr, pull to tighten, sl st into magic circle to finish


If you prefer you can ch4, sl st in 1st ch to form a loop and work the stitches above into the loop.

Round 2
Keeping heart tight and bringing yarn to front ch1, 2sc in next st (1st tr from previous round), 2hdc in next st, 2dc in next st, 2hdc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts, [1sc, 1dc, 1sc] in the next st, 1sc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, 2dc in next st, 2hdc in next st, 2sc in last st, sl st in ch1 to join, joining W as you sl st.

Round 3
Continuing with W, crochet 1sc in next 2 sts (do not ch1), 2sc in next 5 sts, 1sc in next 5 sts, [1sc, 1dc, 1sc] in the next st, 1sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next 5 sts, 1sc in last 2 sts, sl st in 1st sc to join.

Finishing
Pull up yarn to create loop, fasten off and placing finger through loop to secure, double knot in place, tie in all tail ends if required.

Repeat rounds 1-3 to make lots of hearts,

Bunting
Using the same hook and yarn as hearts, ch20 between hearts, joining hearts as you go.

And now you're done!
Any questions or for more free patterns join me on my various social media channels.

    

or visit my website at http://www.happyberry.co.uk





© HappyBerry This pattern can not be reproduced in any way without credit given to HappyBerry. This includes copying and pasting into another blog or website, and filming the pattern for use on YouTube. You can however print it off for personal use or for use in a crochet group. Items made from any of my patterns can be sold in your own stores however. Patterns are not for re-sale. Thank you.

Thursday, 29 January 2015

Can you sell items made from crochet patterns? Know the FACTS!

Oh, the endless debate to this question "can I sell items made from crochet patterns, without the designers permission?"

The short answer is... well there isn't a short answer. Some designers would have you say NO! and some crocheters would have you say YES! What I can say is that the law does fall in favour of the designer, however much people want to ignore this fact, and it certainly isn't about pushy designers having their own way.

So here are some FACTS when dealing with copyright law, taken from the International Berne Convention of which the US, the UK and many other countries are a member of.

So what is the Berne Convention?
The Berne Convention is for the protection of Literary and Artistic Works, and so will apply to crochet patterns/designs and was adopted in 1886 as an international agreement to protect the rights of authors who are nationals of the countries who are members of the convention. You can find the full list of country members here.

So what rights are protected?
An author or designer from any of these countries within the convention is awarded the same rights, of which cannot be carried out without permission, and these include;

  • The exclusive right to reproduce the work, (though some provisions are made under national laws which typically allow limited private and educational use without infringement).
  • The right to authorise translations of the work
  • The right to authorise public performance or broadcast, and the communication of broadcasts and public performances
  • The right to authorise arrangements or other types of adaptation to the work
  • Recitation of the work, (or of a translation of the work)
  • The exclusive right to adapt or alter the work
An author or designer from any of these countries within the convention is also awarded moral rights, of which include;
  • The author has the right to claim authorship
  • The right to object to any treatment of the work which would be ‘prejudicial to his honour or reputation
The last point is an interesting one, because those who argue that their own copyright laws are different, and can do what they like with finished items made from a designer's work, may fall fowl of this moral right. Reproducing work from a design and reproducing it, in what the designer may consider, low quality may have a case that their reputation has been damaged.

MYTHS

There are many myths that circulate the internet from those who wish to profit from designers work, and argue that they can do so regardless but these are often warped viewpoints from wishful thinking, a few of which are;

Everything on the internet is in the 'public domain' and thus free to use.

No, this is a common misunderstanding. A work only falls into the public domain when the copyright expires, typically many years after the author's death. While work published on the Internet may be publicly accessible, it is certainly not in the public domain.

Anything without a copyright notice is not protected

Copyright will apply whether there is a copyright notice or not. In the US, a notice was required to retain copyright on works published before January 1st 1978, but this was the exception not the norm, and is certainly no longer the case. Also, once the US signed up to the Berne convention, US law was amended, and the use of copyright notices became optional on work published from March 1st 1989

Having said this, it is still certainly worth placing a copyright notice on your work. A copyright notice reminds others that copyright exists, and may therefore help to deter infringement, which is to the benefit of the crocheter to not face legal action.

If I change someone else’s work I can claim it as my own

This is restricted. Any adaptation will be legally regarded as a derived work; so if you simply adapt the work of others, it will still be their work, and they have every right to object if publish such a work when they have not given you permission to do so. They are also entitled to reclaim any money you make from selling their work.

So the advice is always to create something unique and original, it can still be inspired by the original work, or seek permission from the rights owner however this may incur a fee or royalties.

I can legally copy 10% without it being infringement

No. Unless it is explicitly allowed under fair use or fair dealing rules, any unauthorised use of copyright work can potentially lead to legal action.


It’s OK to use copy or publish other peoples work if I don't make any money out of it

You may be surprised to know that again, no you cannot except in specific circumstances permitted under fair dealing/fair use rules. Any copying or publication without the consent of the copyright owner is an infringement, and you could face legal action and a claim for damages to reclaim lost revenue and royalties.

It’s hard to prove copyright infringement (so I'll be ok)

This is not the case, copyright law is principally civil not criminal law. Civil law requires a lower burden of proof, actually making it easier to prove infringement. In a criminal case, the defendant is innocent until proven guilty beyond any reasonable doubt. However, in a civil case, the plaintiff must simply convince the court or tribunal that their claim is valid, and that on balance of probability it is likely that the defendant is guilty.

Final points

Ultimately it will come down to the individual circumstances between the plaintiff (the designer) and the guilty party, and the final decision of the judge's rule, and even then many copyright infringements are settled out of court, but it is always advisable to err on the side of caution when reproducing a creator's original work without permission in ANY form.

Some will still argue that creating an item made from a pattern is different and they can do what they like with it, but you may want to check a designer's terms and conditions before setting up shop, as you will have accepted the designer's terms, thus creating an agreement either by registering on their website or simply by downloading it, and even then you still also may fall fowl, like I said before, of being accused of having the designer's honour or reputation impacted, and all it takes is a good lawyer!

So what are HappyBerry's copryight Terms and Conditions

I'm fairly easy going even after reciting all this information, (mainly because I'm sick of the ignorance that circulates the internet). All of my patterns are copyrighted (obviously) and may not be reproduced in any form, including written or via video format without prior permission, but items made from any of my patterns, unless otherwise stated, can be sold in your own stores however. This applies to individuals only and not companies however.

This information has been taken from the UK Copyright Service.

Tuesday, 27 January 2015

Ladies Stripey Sweater Crochet Pattern to fit UK size 10-12 (US 8-10)


This pattern sadly only comes in one size as I designed it specifically for me, as I really wanted to design a crochet jumper that looked different, and used a thinner yarn than the normal chunky yarn I usually use. However I would still like to share with you the pattern for your enjoyment though. Hopefully it will inspire you to adapt the pattern if you are larger or smaller than the stated size here.

This sweater pattern is a medium to fit a UK size 10-12 (US 8-10).

Materials Required
Important Notes
  • The half double crochet stitches are made in the hdc space NOT the hdc stitch
  • This pattern is in US terminology
W = White 
B = Blue

Pattern

Cuffs

Row 1
Using W, crochet 40 hdc foundation stitches - (40)

Note* If you are new to the hdc foundation stitch, you can watch my tutorial here, which explains the basic method but applied to the dc foundation stitch. Simply work a hdc as normal instead of a dc after pulling through the first loop. http://youtu.be/PskA7r0a6Lc

Second Note* Crochet less foundation stitches for a shorter cuff.

Rows 2 - 32
Ch1 (don't count as st here or onwards), TURN, 1hdc in 1st st and in ea st along - (40)

Row 33
Fold cuff in half longways, ch1, TURN, 1sc in 1st st and in ea st along joining the opposite side as you go - (40)

Next step
Crochet 1sc neatly around top edge to equal 32 sts, sl st to join - (32)

Sleeve

Round 1
Ch2 (count as st here and onwards), 1hdc in next st and in ea st around, join B with sl st in top of ch2 to join - (32)

Rounds 2 - 5
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (32)

Round 6
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 15 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (34)

Rounds 7 - 9
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (34)

Round 10
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 16 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (36)

Rounds 11 - 13 
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (36)

Round 14
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 17 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (38)

Rounds 15 - 17
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (38)

Round 18
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 18 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (40)

Rounds 19 - 21
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (40)

Round 22
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 19 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (42)

Rounds 23 - 25
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (42)

Round 26
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 20 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (44)

Rounds 27 - 29
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (44)

Round 30
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 21 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (46)

Rounds 31 - 33
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (46)

Round 34
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 22 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (48)

Rounds 35 - 37
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (48)

Rounds 38 - 57
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (48)
(W x 4, B x 4, W x 4, B x 4, W x 4)

Round 58
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 23 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (50)

Rounds 59 - 61
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (50)

Round 62
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 24 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (52)

Rounds 63 - 65
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (52)

Round 66
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 25 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (54)

Rounds 67 - 69
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (54)

Round 70
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 26 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (56)

Rounds 71 - 73
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (56)

Round 74
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 27 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (58)

Rounds 75 - 77
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join W on last round in sl st) - (58)

Round 78
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1hdc in next 28 hdc spaces, 2hdc in next hdc space, 1hdc in ea hdc space to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (60)

Rounds 79 - 81
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join (join B on last round in sl st) - (60)

Fasten off and tie in all tails. Repeat for other sleeve.

Main Jumper/Sweater - Starting at bottom and crocheted as one piece

Round 1
Starting with W, ch150 hdc foundation sts, sl st in 1st hdc to join and form a large loop - (150)

Rounds 2 - 76
Ch2, 1hdc in next hdc space and in ea hdc space around, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (150)
Join your alternate colours in sl st at end of round as per sleeves.

V-Neck - Joining sleeves to main chest area

Note* Do not turn on these rounds, but crochet around as normal, fastening off and re-joining your yarn when stated to create the v-neck line.

Round 78
Continuing in B, ch2, sk 20 sts, join sleeve and crochet 1hdc into 40 hdc spaces on sleeve (leaves 20 sts on sleeve), now crochet 1hdc in next 26 hdc spaces on main jumper/sweater, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join B in same st (I know seems odd but bare with me), hdc2tog starting in st, 1hdc in next 26 hdc spaces, sk 20 sts, join second sleeve and crochet 1hdc into 40 hdc spaces on sleeve (leaves 20 on second sleeve as well), now crochet 1hdc in remaining hdc spaces to end, sl st in top of ch2 to join - (189)

Round 2
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 24 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, (you're beginning to create the V-neck), hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 24 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 51 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (183)

Round 3
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 22 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 22 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 49 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (177)

Tip* It sometimes looks like there is an extra st at the end, this is what I call a fake st, be careful not to crochet into it, always check your stitch count.

Round 4
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 20 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 20 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 47 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining W as you do so - (171)

Round 5
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 18 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 18 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 45 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (165)

Round 6
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 16 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 16 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 43 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (159)

Round 7
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 14 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 14 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 41 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (153)

Round 8
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 12 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 12 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining B as you do so - (147)

Round 9
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 10 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 10 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 37 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (141)

Round 10
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 8 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 8 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 35 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (135)

Round 11
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 6 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 6 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 33 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (129)

Round 12
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 4 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 4 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 31 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining W as you do so - (123)

Round 13
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 2 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 2 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 29 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (117)

Round 14
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog twice, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog twice, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 27 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (111)

Round 15
Ch2, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 39 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 25 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (107)

Round 16
Ch2, 1hdc in next 38 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 38 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 23 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining B as you do so - (103)

Round 17
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in next 37 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 37 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 21 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (99)

Round 18
Ch2, 1hdc in next 36 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 36 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 19 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (95)

Round 19
Ch2, 1hdc in next 35 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 35 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 17 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (91)

Round 20
Ch2, 1hdc in next 34 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 34 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 15 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining W as you do so - (87)

Round 21
Continuing in W, ch2, 1hdc in next 33 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 33 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 13 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (83)

Round 22
Ch2, 1hdc in next 32 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 32 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 11 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (79)

Round 23
Ch2, 1hdc in next 31 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 31 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 9 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (75)

Round 24
Ch2, 1hdc in next 30 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 30 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 7 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join, joining B as you do so - (71)

Round 25
Continuing in B, ch2, 1hdc in next 29 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 29 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 5 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (67)

Round 26
Ch2, 1hdc in next 28 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 28 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 3 hdc spaces, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (63)

Round 27
Ch2, 1hdc in next 27 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 27 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next hdc space, hdc2tog into ch2 to join - (59)

Round 28
Ch2, 1hdc in next 26 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, FASTEN OFF, re-join in next st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 26 hdc spaces, hdc2tog, sl st in top of ch2 to join, joining W as you do so - (56)


V-Neck Line Border

Note* Now work sts as normal, not into spaces.

Round 1
Continuing in W, ch1, 1sc in ea st around, then work 1sc neatly down edge of V, 1sc in centre of V, then work 1sc up edge of V, 1sc to end, sl st in ch1 to join - (work to 111)

Round 2
Ch2, 1hdc in next 25 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 4 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 23 sts, hdc2tog in centre of V, 1hdc in next 27 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 5 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 5 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 14 sts, sl st in top of ch2 - (105)

Round 3
Ch2, 1hdc in next 25 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 3 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 22 sts, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 26 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 4 sts, sk1, 1hdc in  next 4 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 13 sts, sl st in top of ch2 - (99)

Round 4
Ch2, 1hdc in next 24 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 3 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 21 sts, hdc2tog, 1hdc in next 24 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 3 sts, sk1, 1hdc in  next 3 sts, sk1, 1hdc in next 12 sts, sl st in top of ch2 - (92)

Fasten off and tie in all tails.

Hem

Join W at side, at the bottom and ch21, 1hdc in 2nd st from hook and in ea st along, sl st in next 2 sts on main jumper, TURN, 1hdc in ea st along hem, ch1 (don't count as st), TURN, *1hdc in 1st st and ea st along, sl st in next 2 sts on main jumper, TURN, 1hdc in ea st along hem, ch1 (don't count as st), TURN* repeat from * to * until end, joining both sides on last row - (20)

Fasten off and tie in all tails.

Sew up remaining gaps under arms.

And now you're done!
Any questions or for more free patterns join me on my various social media channels.

    

or visit my website at http://www.happyberry.co.uk





© HappyBerry This pattern can not be reproduced in any way without credit given to HappyBerry. This includes copying and pasting into another blog or website, and filming the pattern for use on YouTube. You can however print it off for personal use or for use in a crochet group. Items made from any of my patterns can be sold in your own stores however. Patterns are not for re-sale. Thank you.

Wednesday, 21 January 2015

Guest Blog by Shireen, Founder of Buddy Companions


I would like to share my experience on how I picked up crochet as a hobby and how it has helped me after a setback in 2012. 

My crochet journey started in 2008 when I was in between jobs.

It so happened that during my job search, there was a crafting fair at the Red Dot Museum in Singapore. I have always enjoyed doing crafts at a very young age, so I went down to the fair with my sister to see what the stalls were selling. Our intention was just to go and take a look. I came across a stall which sold handmade dolls and my first impression was “Wow!” These are really lovely. My dream then was if only I could make these beautiful dolls, then I would be able to set up my own little shop and sell them to kids who would be interested to own them.  I was truly fascinated and intrigued in knowing “how to” learn to make them myself.

I took a name card from the lady mending the stall and we communicated via email. She invited me to go for a crafting club meeting and introduced me to her friend who ran the club and also taught people how to crochet and knit. To cut the story short, I ended up taking a basic course on how to crochet from my current teacher now turned friend, Betsy. I still remember the times when I would have to travel one and a half hours to and another one and a half hours back from my Teacher’s place in Sembawang. My lessons then were conducted in Betsy’s small cosy room turned crafting studio for the students whom Betsy recruited. My very first project was a handphone pouch. After mastering the basic stitches in crochet, I went on to make my very first amigurumi, a baby goat which is my current profile picture. Needless to say, I became addicted to making amigurumies because they were so cute and they were good as gifts.

I am truly grateful that I managed to pick up crochet as a hobby and even master the skill of making amigurumies because never would I realise that this skill would see me through a difficult setback in 2012 and help me to get back up on my feet.

Crochet has indeed helped me come a long way during difficult times.

It has helped me to focus, to take my eyes off my current situation and divert my attention to the project on hand;

It has taught me perseverance on seeing a project from beginning to completion;

It has given me a sense of achievement and accomplishment;

It has enabled me to think of how I could match different yarn colours to beautify my projects and even to add props to beautify my photos. The possibilities of what one can make with just a ball of yarn are truly amazing and endless.

Fast forward seven years and Betsy, my teacher has set up her own small and cosy crochet and knit café at Bugis Cube whereas for myself, I would like to believe that I have perfected my crocheting skills in making my amigurumi dolls. I have taken part in a few competitions and some if not all of my creations have won me patterns which I am proud of:

My Red Riding Hood Doll was picked and had special mention as one of their favourite pictures in the video made by Stitch Craft Create UK,

My two bunnies in their carrot homes have won me a free pattern from http://Briabby.com a site selling patterns, kids’ hats and clothing for the little ones and last but not least and my entry for “Sofia the Ladybug girl loves ladybugs” came in first in Little Yarn Friends crochet along competition held in 2014.

Looking back, I would say that I am proud of what I have managed to achieve in my crochet journey and I have come to the realisation that it wasn’t so much a “job” I was searching for but rather a direction to something which I could be good at and excel in, something which could fill a void and a sense of emptiness which I felt deep within.

What prompted me to write this post is that I finally realised that more than realising my dream of opening a shop to sell things is the beauty derived from my own creations that blesses my heart and puts a smile on other people’s faces too. Just like life is a journey, crafting and creating is a journey too and I believe that I would never have come this far without the support and encouragement given to me by some sweet friends and family members.

The versatility of crochet stitches just keeps me on the learning journey and I hope to be able to write up with my own patterns someday.

I am indeed grateful that I have mastered such a useful skill and I hope that what I have shared would bless someone else’s heart or even encourage someone to pick up the skill.

I have set up a Facebook page to post all my creations there. You are all welcome to visit my page at: http://www.facebook.com/BuddyCompanions

With lots of love,
Shireen
Founder of Buddy Companions (Facebook Page)

If you would like to appear as a guest blogger then please get in touch to share your story.

What does CAL, WIP, Frogging and JAYGO mean in Crochet?

If you are new to crocheting, just learning the basic stitches can leave you feeling a little left out of the party, but what about when you come across not just new stitch abbreviations but a new crocheting lingo that you didn't even know existed?

And by this I mean all the strange abbreviations such as WIP or CAL, which can be exhausting to Google and find out what they mean so you don't feel so silly asking the crochet community.

So here is my quick breakdown of the acronyms I have come across over the years, that even befuddled me once upon a time.

WIP is probably the easiest acronym to figure out, especially when it goes along with a certain picture you've seen which says it underneath, and it means 'Work In Progress'. I still have numerous WIPs I know that.

Afghan Baby Throw
Video tutorial available here
Petal Trim Tunic
Free pattern available here
Frogging is a rather strange expression that even to this day I still don't quite understand why it is called frogging, but maybe that's due to me being quite calm when unpicking my projects as I do it so frequently to save on yarn, and that's exactly what it means, 'to undo your project' and start over again. The joke being, that as frogs go 'ribbit ribbit', when you unpick you 'rip it rip it' in frustration. I prefer to just say I undid it but call me boring. ;)

The biggest project I have ever 'frogged' was my Petal Trim Tunic, which became my Afghan Baby Throw not so soon after.


CAL is an acronym that can elude crocheters for quite a while as it is never exactly clear even when seen alongside a certain project, but it is fairly simple and means 'crochet along' and a 'crochet along' is an event that many designers like to run to engage viewers to join them in making something unique, such as an afghan, and different granny squares will be shared at various times so you can crochet the same time as other crocheters or the designer.

So now you know the term, maybe you can enjoy something new! which reminds me, I really must run a CAL at some point. Any suggestions for CAL subjects please feel free to post a comment below with your ideas.

JAYGO is an acronym that is often seen again with CALs or other large on-going projects, and it means 'Join As You Go' so can often relate to afghans that require sewing or crocheting together many squares or shapes.

So now a few strange acronyms and expressions have been demystified, I hope you don't feel so left out of the crochet party and can come in and join the rest of us, because like you us so called lingo experts all started with just that one chain and quite a few frogs! (^-^)

As and when I remember more acronyms or expressions I shall add them to this blog post.
Happy crocheting folks!

Any questions or for more free patterns join me on my various social media channels.

    

or visit my website at http://www.happyberry.co.uk





© HappyBerry This pattern can not be reproduced in any way without credit given to HappyBerry. This includes copying and pasting into another blog or website, and filming the pattern for use on YouTube. You can however print it off for personal use or for use in a crochet group. Items made from any of my patterns can be sold in your own stores however. Patterns are not for re-sale. Thank you.

Saturday, 17 January 2015

Valentine's Day Crochet Patterns and Tutorials

It is soon approaching to be that time of year again when romance fills the air and many crocheters start looking for some fun heart filled crochet projects to try and we have quite a few to try here at HappyBerry.

Here are just a few crochet tutorials that you may like to try;

Crocheted Heart Bunting

Our heart bunting, crocheted in pastel colours with a white border, give a lovely finish to any room and they don't have to be just for Valentine's Day. Why not crochet them for a summer party or why not use a sparkly yarn for an extra special Christmas treat.

Video tutorial only.


Simple 2D Mini Hearts

Our quick and simple mini hearts are great fun to try, especially if you like using up scraps of yarn. Why not make some and glue them onto card to make extra special greeting cards, or make lots and use them as romantic confetti on a bed.

Video tutorial and written pattern, which can be found here: 
http://happyberrycrochet.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/how-to-crochet-simple-heart-chaining.html


Heart Bracelet

Our heart bracelet tutorial gives step by step photo guides via the link below. A fun project for teens or adults to  try. Why not make one and give to a friend this Valentine's Day. A cool alternative to a friendship bracelet.

Written Pattern only, which can be found here:
http://happyberrycrochet.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/quick-and-simple-crochet-heart-bracelet.html



3D Padded Heart

These hearts were designed in aid of a baby charity, Little Hearts Matter and the pattern comes as a video tutorial. Made in two halves you can either sew them together in a different colour or in the same colour as a complete heart. Perfect as decorations around the house, or as keyrings.

Video tutorial only.



Large Padded Heart

An old pattern but a goodie, and perfect to hang around the house as pretty decorations. Why not fill them with lavender and use them in wardrobes or clothing drawers to give a sweet scent to your clothes.

Written pattern only, which can be found here:
http://happyberrycrochet.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/crochet-love-heart-free-pattern.html


I hope you find something fun to try this Valentine's Day. Any questions or for more free patterns join me on my various social media channels.

    

or visit my website at http://www.happyberry.co.uk





© HappyBerry This pattern can not be reproduced in any way without credit given to HappyBerry. This includes copying and pasting into another blog or website, and filming the pattern for use on YouTube. You can however print it off for personal use or for use in a crochet group. Items made from any of my patterns can be sold in your own stores however. Patterns are not for re-sale. Thank you.